I don't know if the Moody Blues ever found that Lost Chord they were looking for. However, I might have found the Lost Sandwich - and I didn't even know it was missing. Or, more amazingly, I didn't even know it existed.

You have to go to New London's Crown Chicken & Grill, located in the old KFC building on Bank Street. (More on their very fine chicken - and a surprisingly ambitious menu - in a minute.)

They have a shrimp cheesesteak grinder ($9.99) that, when I unwrapped it, made me laugh out loud with happy possibilities. First of all, I misunderstood - figuring it would just be a fried shrimp version of a Philly cheesesteak, the way you get a chicken Philly instead of steak. But that was my fault. The menu doesn't say "Shrimp Philly."

Instead, it's literal: the chewy, foot-long grinder loaf was indeed stuffed with lean shredded steak and the requisite, tangy cheese sauce - but also heaped with several small grilled shrimps. Brilliant! I'd never even considered such a thing. Along with lettuce, diced green peppers and mayo (I declined onions), the construct was so beautiful I gasped with joy.

Conceptually, I knew what Jonas Salk felt like when he cured polio!

One bite was all it took to know that, taste-wise, it's as magical as you'd hope for. Not only do the crustaceans provide that briny taste of the deep to accent the beef and cheese, the soft pop when you bite into one offers a rewarding textural component. One small warning: this thing is a mess. A beautiful mess, but plan on napkins and maybe a fork to help out.

Alright, then. We should not forget that the main idea at Crown is fried chicken - and, yes, they do it right. First of all, as every counter person has told me on every visit, there is no frozen chicken (or fish) allowed in the kitchen or fryer.

If, then, you sample a three-piece mixed chicken special ($5.49 with a side and a biscuit), you get a triumvirate of very fresh bird - a breast, a wing and a thigh. The pieces are plump and the juice is sealed inside a thin, brittle, tasty crust. It's pretty wonderful.

A five-piece order of tenders ($6.99 with fries) wasn't as successful. The breast medallions were pounded very flat and, in contrast to the bone-in pieces, the batter was excessively thick and overwhelmed the flavor balance.

The Crown folks are also proud of their fish baskets. You can choose between Tilapia or whiting baskets; the former is a thicker filet and the latter has a bit of a fishier taste. I tried a two-piece Tilapia basket ($6.49 with a biscuit and one side) and was very happy. The filets, with a paper-thin batter veneer, were large and not at all greasy.

As for side dishes, they performed reasonably well, particularly in a "fast food" context. An ear of corn ($1.75) was mushy and had that "been under the heat lamp for a while" consistency. Macaroni and cheese ($1.75) boasted toothsome pasta and a not-too-goopy cheddar component. Mozzarella sticks (four for $3.25) were very good, with rich, chewy cheese bursting out of a bark of delicately fried bread crumbs. And - another intriguing idea - spinach rolls ($1.75) were literally like egg rolls stuffed with fresh spinach. Very simple but a nice combination of textures and tastes.

Crown seems to have a growing and loyal group of folks already in tune with their many fine offerings. I can definitely see going back for the fish and the chicken - but first I have to get my fill of the amazing shrimp cheesesteak grinder.

Crown Chicken & Grill

922 Bank St., New London

(860) 437-1555

Cuisine: Fried chicken and fish, grinders, burgers and breakfast

Atmosphere: It's an old Kentucky Fried Chicken, so the layout is simple and minimal with a few functional dine-in tables.

Service: It's order and pick-up at the counter, but everyone is very friendly. Depending on the line, there might be a bit of a wait as the fryers percolate in the kitchen.

Prices: Fried chicken, fish and shrimp platters and combos $3.49-$21.99; grinders and sandwiches $3.25-$9.99; sides and salads $1.75-$7.99; breakfast $2.25-$5.49.

Reservations: N/A, but you can certainly call in an order.

Handicap access: Double door from parking lot but roomy floor plan for dining-in.

Credit cards: All majors.