Deep River is known as the cute, scruffy cousin to Chester, and I’ll allow that. A friend and former colleague once called Deep River “Mayberry by the sea.” That’s getting closer, but DR’s particular brand of charm is in a league of its own. From the town horseshoe pits and historical buildings to the annual muster parade and all the hometown, feel-good events in between, Deep River dares to be different.

Another example? The Rusty Rail Tavern, an eatery situated along the Valley Railroad Company line, which runs the wildly popular themed train trips up and down the scenic Connecticut River Valley. Parents are likely very familiar with the annual Santa train and Thomas the Tank Engine runs.

Hence, Rusty Rail fully inhabits its train space, and the décor and proximity to the little-railroad-that-could will delight train enthusiasts of all ages. Plus, we enjoyed everything we sampled and can share one must-try rave.

That would be the Southwest Turkey sandwich ($17.50; comes with amazing fries), which sounds fairly basic. However, within the delicious ciabatta roll is a huge stack of hot roasted turkey, thin and crispy bacon and cheddar cheese, which would be fine on their own, but paired with the attending chipotle mayo, the sandwich goes from good to great. Also, it’s enormous and filled two of us (the fries are big and plentiful) pretty quickly. Our starter of a cup of Railside Chili ($8) primed the system, and we were pleasantly surprised by the kick of heat within the standard beef and bean recipe. Of course, anything is better with cheese, and RR’s chili comes with Monterey Jack cheese on top and tortilla chips for dipping.

We had to wait a bit before we dug into the Santa Fe Salad ($18) — not all salads come topped with a huge portion of blackened chicken, you see. This salad features a fun mix of greens, chopped tomatoes, red onion, sweet corn, red peppers, black beans, avocado and Monterey Jack, plus the spice-rubbed chicken and some tortilla chips for texture and a side of “Southwest dressing.” The salad had enough going on to be quite good without the dressing, but a moderate dip or two added a little more spice kick to each bite. As for the chicken, it was tender and flavorful — possibly a little too flavorful. We’d suggest a little less rub to ensure the flavor of the greens and things don’t get lost in a salty wave.

On another night, I got a little fancier and started with a drink off the cocktail menu. The No. 9 Gimlet ($12) beckoned thanks to its base ingredient of Hendricks gin. This gimlet adds basil, agave and muddled cucumber to the usual lime juice, and it’s a refreshing combination that I told myself would prove digestively beneficial. Note: You have to really like basil to truly enjoy the No. 9. (Or just ask for a lighter touch with that ingredient.)

The fanciness ended there with a huge platter of the spectacular Southwest Nachos ($18.50, and it’s a huge portion). There are few comfort foods better than oven-baked nachos, and RR’s could warm the weariest of souls. Every part of the dish was great: The crispy, flavorful chips, lots of Jack cheese, and tasty toppings like black beans and corn, plus the usual tomatoes, jalapenos and onions. The nachos came with salsa, sour cream and the southwest sauce, but for me, the nachos stood up on their own without any dippers necessary.

Our dinners that night were on different ends of the sandwich spectrum. For me, it was Just a Burger with cheese ($16.50 or $18 with cheese). Just a Burger is among four other burger options topped with things like onion rings (the Deadwood Burger) and cowboy caviar (the Rodeo Burger), a mix of corn, beans and veggies. That burger’s on my Next Time list for sure.

But I enjoyed my basic cheeseburger — cooked to order — and, once again, the excellent fries. The burger comes with lettuce and tomato. I chose cheddar as my cheese, and this half pounder could not be defeated in one sitting. It held up well and made for a tasty lunch the next day.

We didn’t expect to see an item called the Trenitalia Frecciarossa ($18) on the Rusty Rail menu. Of course, we had to investigate and we are glad we did, because we discovered another standout item. Once you get past trying to pronounce the name and read the menu description, a delicious combination emerges: grilled chicken topped with fresh mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, basil, garlic and a delicious balsamic glaze drizzle. Delivering it all with balance and subtle flavor is grilled rustica bread, and the grilling really amplifies everything else, which was pretty fabulous to start with. Recommended without hesitation.

We are at peak Delightful New England Fall, and the Rusty Rail offers a prime spot to grab and seat, enjoy a drink and watch the world trundle by. We look forward to our next visit and can’t wait to see what the holidays look like at this cozy enclave.

Rusty Rail Tavern

439 B Main St., Deep River

(860) 322-4285

https://www.rustyrailct.com

Cuisine: Pub food and then some: burgers and fries, hot dogs, big sandwiches, wings, and more. The cocktail and beer list offer a nice range of libations.

Atmosphere: RR bills itself as a “Post and beam style barn with outdoor seating,” and that’s accurate, but add in kitschy, railroad-centric décor; cheeky signage; and a very cozy warm vibe inside. As for the outdoor seating, it’s the backyard of suburban dreams with lawn games; heaters; umbrellas; and lots of fall decorations. Also, dogs are welcome in the outdoor seating area. Live music on Fridays.

Service: Warm, welcoming, and timely

Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 3-9 p.m.; Friday, 3-11 p.m.; Saturday, noon-11 p.m.; Sunday, noon-6 p.m.

Prices: Prices are up everywhere, but RR is on par with other local pubs: A (huge) platter of nachos will run you $18; burgers start at $16.50; other sandwiches and meals average around $18. Portions are generous.

Credit cards: Accepted

Accessibility: Dedicated gravel parking lot (that fills up quickly) with a ramp available at the entrance