Open since October 2023, Owl and Dove is the latest in a succession of restaurants that have occupied a space alongside the bridge that connects Pawcatuck and Westerly at the southeastern end of Connecticut. Before Owl and Dove, the space was Mia’s, and prior to that, Prime Time Café.

The new operators have freshened up the property, making it clean, bright and inviting. There are neutral colors in the dining room — grays, blues and black — and on the walls, monthly rotating exhibitions that support local artists.

They serve two menus every day, one before 2 p.m. featuring breakfast and lunch, and another after 5 p.m., with appetizers, entrees, sandwiches and terrific happy hour specials from 5 to 6 p.m. We have visited twice recently, once in the late morning and again on an early evening.

They were two very different experiences, although both times the food was good. It was the kitchen service that was the problem on our second visit, and I suspect it was just an off day.

When we went midday, we started with the clam cakes ($6) that came with a little tub of tartar sauce. They were advertised as a side to Nita’s Clam Chowder ($9) but we passed on the chowder and just got the clam cakes, which were more like fritters. They were good, with plenty of clams, but with more seasoning, they would have been better.

We also tried a daily special, Ari’s Spicy Chicken Thigh ($18), a sandwich that was advertised as coming on a baguette. It arrived on a brioche roll, which frankly we preferred, but our waitress only realized later when we pointed it out to her. The sandwich was tasty, the chicken well prepared, and served with siracha-honey, spicy mayo, lettuce, tomato and fries. You can swap out the French fries for dressed greens or homes fries, or, for a small upcharge, get your sandwich on a gluten-free roll or a Flour Shop bagel.

The Owl Omelet ($15) was very good and super-sized. There were sauteed mushrooms, tomatoes, spinach and cheddar, folded in between the pillowy eggs. It was served with delicious home fries and buttered multi-grain toast. It was a lot of food.

We had arrived before noon on a weekday, but by the time we left, the restaurant was filling up. We decided to come back for the evening menu and returned the following Monday. We got there about 5:30, to take advantage of the happy hour offerings, and we were the only people in the dining room. A dozen or so people were in the bar, and a few more came in after. We also watched a couple of customers stop by to pick up take-out orders.

Our waitress was lovely, and she apologized to us four or five times, but the wait time from when she put our order in, until our food came out, was painfully long.

It was “buck a shuck,” and we ordered a half dozen oysters for $6, and wine. We waited, and waited, for a considerable amount of time. Eventually, we did get the oysters and the wine, and an apology from our waitress.

In addition to discounted cocktails, beer and wine, there are great deals on happy hour snacks at Owl and Dove. We tried the Sliders ($6) and the Crispy Beef Cheek Dumplings ($8). Like the oysters, it was a long wait before they were served.

There were two of the sliders – beef patties with griddled onions, cheddar and a special sauce, on toasted buns, and they were yummy. Very satisfying on a cold fall night. We didn’t care so much for the Beef Cheek Dumplings, which possibly had been overcooked, although they were advertised as crispy. They were served with an Asian barbecue sauce, scallions and a wedge of lime. They would have been better if they weren’t so well done.

As a third course, we split the Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($12) and what the menu described as “Westerly’s Finest Bolognese,” ($28). Both were exceptional. But once again, it took seemingly forever after the snacks for the main course to arrive. We were the only people in the dining room, and our waitress was concerned. When she apologized for the third time, she explained that they were training a new chef in the kitchen, and that was causing the delay. We relaxed, or tried to, and looked forward to what was to come.

The Brussels sprouts and Bolognese were worth the wait. The sprouts were cooked al dente, to just the right firmness, and not mushy. They were dressed with crispy pieces of sliced bacon, caramelized onions, a cranberry compote and Parmesan. They were exceptionally good when compared to the many versions of Brussels sprouts served at restaurants these days.

The Bolognese also lived up to its billing. I can’t guarantee that it is Westerly’s finest, but the house-made fettuccine was laden with a hearty meat sauce that was mop-your-plate-clean good. We split the order, and the chef-in-training was kind enough to divide it between two plates, so we each had our own serving. It was plenty of food, and we will go back and order it again.

Running a restaurant and attracting patrons is a tough business, especially in this area where there are many competitors. At Owl and Dove, the owners have come up with innovative ways to build their trade. In addition to the art exhibits on the walls, they host a book club, wine dinners and game nights. You can find all the details on their website. In addition to the food, there are multiple reasons to visit Owl and Dove.

Owl and Dove

1 West Broad St., Pawcatuck

(860) 495-2386

www.owlanddovect.com .

Atmosphere: Cozy and welcoming. Located alongside the Pawcatuck River, the dining room provides direct views of the flowing waterway. There is a wall that separates the bar from the dining room, creating two distinct spaces.

Cuisine: There are two menus daily – the Morning Dove and the Night Owl. It’s all quality-made comfort food, sourced from local growers and purveyors.

Alcohol: Yes

Hours: Weekdays 10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m., except for Wednesdays, when they are closed. Saturdays 8 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.; Sundays 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Happy hour daily 5-6 p.m.

Service: Mixed

Prices: Very reasonable

Credit Cards: Yes

Handicapped accessibility: Yes